History of
GosuLoli Timeline
translated
from the "History of GOSULOLI" [sic] timeline
in Rococo Vol. 1
translation by sumire
(further notes and references under construction)
The
1980s
- 1983:
Indie label "Nagomu Records" is founded
by Kera, vocalist of "Uchoten"
- Spawned such bands
as Kinniku Shoujo-Tai, Jinsei (later Denki Groove),
Tama, Tomorowo Taguchi's Bachikaburi, and Shine-Shine-Dan.
Expressing something different from the rock that
had been dominant up until that time, it causes a
subculture movement. Nagomu-kei fans known as
"Nagomu Gals" appear. They are
connected to the later lolita fashion.
- 1984:
Indie label "Trance Records" is founded.
- Represented by
such bands as YBO2. The polar opposite of Nagomu-kei
bands, they play dark, heavy music. Connected to
the later goth fashion.
(NOTE: The bands' fans were known as "Trance
Gals.")
HYSTERIC GLAMOUR is founded.
Kitschy, American-casual-style brand HYSTERIC
GLAMOUR is founded by designer Nobuhiko Kitamura.
Vivienne Westwood first comes to Japan
She first shows her collection in Tokyo
with Hanae Mori and others.
(Note: Calvin Klein, Claude
Montana, and Gianfranco Ferre were the others.)
- 1985: The
"Hoko-ten Boom" begins.
- Replacing the
Takenoko-zoku, live street performances on
Harajuku's Omote-Sando Boulevard become popular.
This led to the "band boom" that
continued until 1995. Bands coming out of this
scene include JUN SKY WALKER(S), THE BOOM, and
BAKU.
- 1986: BUCK-TICK
make their indie-label debut.
- Still popular with
gothloli girls today, they make their indie-label
debut with "TO SEARCH/PLASTIC SYNDROME2."
They set a legendary record for indies-chart
sales at the time.
- 1987:
Mandarake Inc. founded.
- They not only sell
old manga and retro toys, but also spread the
culture of cosplay and doujinshi into the world.
- 1988: X (Japan)
make their indie-label debut.
- The now-legendary
band X's debut "Vanishing Vision" goes
on sale. The costumes subsequently worn by X fans
can be called a culture. Its history begins at
the same time as the arrival of the Visual-kei
band boom.
BABY, THE STARS SHINE BRIGHT is founded.
The brand now synonymous with "lolita"
is founded.
- 1989:
Audition program "Ika-Ten" begins
airing.
- Brings about the
debut of such bands as FLYING KIDS, BLANKEY JET
CITY, Tama, JITTERIN' JINN, and BEGIN.
Jane Marple's first shop opens.
Having operated up until now without having its
own shop, clothing brand Jane Marple opens its
first shop in Laforet Harajuku Part 2.
The
1990s
- 1990: The
"Shibuya-kei Boom" arrives.
- The last wave of
the "Band Boom," stylish bands like
Flipper's Guitar, Pizzicato Five, and ORIGINAL
LOVE known as "Shibuya-kei" bands,
become popular. Music fans change from the older
style of ban-gyaru (band girls) to the "Olive
Shoujo" ("Olive Girls"). Their
keywords are stripes, berets, and Agnes B.
(NOTE: According to the accompanying article,
the women's fashion magazine Olive brought about
the "natural-kei lolita" boom.)
(NOTE: In the character profiles of 1996 shoujo
anime "Gokinjo Monogatari," lolita-dressing
character Pii-chan's favorite style of music is
Shibuya-kei.)
- 1991:
Juliana's Tokyo opens.
- In the last days
of the "bubble economy," large-scale
disco Juliana's Tokyo opens in Shibaura. It
becomes a social phenomenon, spawning terms like
"body-con," "otachidai," and
"juri-sen."
Were both the "kurofuku" who worked at
the disco and the "kurofuku" worn by
Visual-kei fans originated by Trance Gals?
(NOTES: "body-con[scious]": the fad
of tight, short, spangled, tank dresses to show
off one's body; "otachidai": tiered
platforms for dancers to stand on at discos;
"Juli[ana]-sen[su]" ("Juliana fan"):
a feather-trimmed fan held in one hand while one
dances. "Kurofuku" ("black clothes")
had two different slang meanings at this time: a)
a disco staff member or other service-industry
employee, usually clad in a black suit, and b)
the all-black, body-covering outfits favored by
Visual-kei fans.)
- 1993: JUDY
AND MARY debut with the single "Power of
Love."
- Lolita punk
clothing modeled after vocalist Yuki's outfits
becomes popular. English duo Shampoo are also
symbolic. Harajuku-kei brands like MILK and
HYSTERIC GLAMOUR become popular.
- 1994:
Laforet Harajuku is wildly popular.
- Crowds of 2-3000
people, including some who camp out all night,
line up for the New Year's bargain sales.
Harajuku-kei high-brands, decidedly not cheap,
are popular. Customers swarm stores like Jane
Marple and BA-TSU.
- 1995:
Vivienne Westwood Tokyo opens in Hibiya.
- Designer Vivienne
Westwood comes to Japan for the grand opening.
She presents both a floor show and a talk show.
Tomoe Shinohara, last of the Nagomu Gals,
makes her debut.
Her eccentric fashion, spastic
movements, and unique way of talking become
popular. "Shinollers" who imitate her
appear in Harajuku. Producer Takkyu Ishino
describes her as "the future ten years of
Nagomu Gals turned into a marketable product."
Clothing brands SUPER LOVERS and Betty's Blue
experience a boom.
- 1996:
MALICE MIZER debut.
- MALICE MIZER debut
with their first single "Uruwashiki Kamen no
Shoutaijou. They make a sensational entrance with
their medieval European concept and aesthetic
worldview.
The late-night program "BREAKOUT"
leads to a revival of the Visual-kei boom.
MALICE MIZER is at the head of the list that
includes bands like SHAZNA, La'cryma Christi,
FANATIC CRISIS, SOPHIA. It is at this time that
gothloli is born.
Metamorphose is founded.
Classical, romantic lolita brand Metamorphose is
founded by designer Kuniko Kato.
- 1997: Ura-Hara-kei
"individualistic" high brands are very
popular.
- 20471120, MILK,
MILK BOY, Vivienne Westwood, Christopher Nemeth,
Takuya Angel, and other unconventional brands
with a strong individual style experience a boom.
- 1998: The
remake of the movie "Lolita" is
released.
- Adrian Lyne
remakes Stanley Kubrick's 1961 "Lolita."
It is based on Vladimir Nabokov's novel "Lolita,"
which is the origin of the terms "Lolita
complex" and "Lolita fashion."
(NOTE: So what?)
The
2000s
- 2000: The
movie "Battle Royale" is released.
- Directed by Kinji
Fukasaku. The violence of this story of
classmates killing each other earns the film an R-15
rating and status as a societal problem. The
uniforms in the movie are designed by popular
brand BA-TSU. They are sold in stores, and some
fans attend the movie in costume.
h.NAOTO's first collection.
The brand h.NAOTO is created by designer Naoto
Hirooka. His strong sense of design earns him the
esteem of musicians both within Japan and abroad.
Novala Takemoto debuts as a novelist with
"Mishin" ("Sewing
Machine").
Novala Takemoto, whose essays and writings have
made him a charismatic figure among young girls,
makes his debut as a novelist.
The movie "Sleepy Hollow" is
released.
Directed by Tim Burton. Its beautiful images and
costumes express a gothic worldview similar to
that of a Western fairy tale.
(NOTE: They've neglected to mention the
publication of the first Gothic & Lolita
Bible, since they're a rival publisher.)
- 2001: 2001
TOKYO GOTH & DARKWAVE 01 is held.
- The first
occurrence of the largest gothic event in the
Kanto region. The event continues to be held
until the seventh and final time at Shibuya DeSeO.
The movie "Harry Potter and the
Philosopher's Stone" is released.
Based on the bestselling novel that caused a
worldwide sensation. Around the world, young
people gather at sneak previews dressed in
costume as the characters.
- 2002:
MALICE MIZER breaks up.
- After continuing
in the face of obstacles like Gackt's departure
and the sudden death of KAMI, MALICE MIZER
finally ceases activity. The early 2000s see a
rush of Visual-kei bands breaking up.
- 2004:
Concept-kei bands become popular.
- Kishidan, Psycho
le Cemu, and other conceptual bands that ignore
genre become popular. Their concerts are
overflowing with cosplayers.
Many solo artists debut.
As Visual-kei bands continue to break up, solo
artists become popular. DAIGO STAR*DUST, Miyavi,
and others bring about a revival of Soft Visual-kei.
Kendzi Otsuki's "Rocking Horse
Ballerina" goes on sale.
A slightly silly and lovable coming-of-age story
about a punk band and a lolita girl traveling.
The movie "Shimotsuma Monogatari,"
based on a novel by Novala Takemoto, is released.
Lead actress Kyoko Fukada, dressed head-to-toe in
Baby, the Stars Shine Bright clothing, draws mass
media attention. This dissolves the conception
that gothloli equals Visual-kei fan, and gothloli
is recognized as fashion.
The movie "PEEP "TV" SHOW"
is well-received around the world.
This movie about a gothloli girl, with a script
collaborated upon by Karin Amamiya, is highly
praised at international film festivals, leading
to articles introducing the term "gothloli"
in magazines and the New York Post. With this,
the spelling "GOTHLOLI" changes to
"GOSULOLI," as it is pronounced in
Japanese, and gains worldwide recognition.
(NOTE: Oh, so that's why they spell it "GOSULOLI"
in the title. I still feel some resistance
towards that spelling, though.)
|